Raphael Kessler

Samoa is a country that claims to be the most purely Polynesian of all the Pacific islands. Kirikiti however is a clear influence from its former colonial masters. The game is similar to Cricket, though the bat is triangular and bigger and the whole thing is generally more informal than Cricket.

The most famous resident Samoa has ever had, is most certainly Robert Louis Stevenson, author of classics such as Treasure Island. He came to Samoa for his health and became known locally as the "Teller of Tales". His house has been turned into a museum to the man.

On my arrival in Savai'i, the biggest island in Samoa, though second in economic importance, I was welcomed by the local constabulary who were stood around smoking. When I asked Joe (photo 1 centre) why he got to wear a nice helmet, but his colleagues got peaked caps. I was informed that this was because they were traffic police. So, where was the police car? They didn't need one they told me, as they can always get a lift when they need one. As with most of the pacific islands, lovely sunsets are a regular occurrence (photo 2).

There was a Fia Fia at the place I was staying. The family who ran the place were all involved and all seemed to be having a good time. A family member, with the full body tattoo, proudly danced for us (photo 2), displaying the tattoo that usually takes months to complete and is a test of manhood. Then a boy of ten years of age did some fire twirling for us (photos 3-5).

The Waterfall on Savai'i is in a truly idyllic setting.

The blowholes are very impressive to watch. The surf lapping the shore is forced through comparatively small apertures, which then forces the water in a jet skyward. The easiest way to see the force involved is to throw a coconut in the hole and watch as the water acts like a cannon blasting the thing into the air (photos 1 & 2).

The views from the air were nice and on the inexpensive fifteen minute flight from Savai'i back to the main island of Upolu, I had a plane all to myself.